I got a Martin C melody, nickel plated Handcraft stenciled as a Wurlitzer.
The neck on these is crooked so sharply that the mpc is below the tenon.
Because of this, the playing position proved impossible (something like closing a too tight collar button while handcuffed).
Lots of people do not find this to be a problem, but it blocked me completely.
I tried to get a modern straight neck Holton replacement neck from Aquilasax, but after being on a waiting list for years they went out of business before I got one.
Next, I decided to try to have an original Martin neck outwards. Because the nickel plating was a pain, I bought a cheap Martin C mel just for the neck. However, no tech would touch the job. I pointed out that Jimmy Giuffre had this done on his Mark VI tenor, but that did not seem to encourage anyone to try it.
I was on the verge of going the Cerrobend/pitch/sand/soapy frozen water do-it-yourself bend, when my wife suggested that I consult with a custom metal fabricator.
I did that and he came up with the solution of cutting a wedge out of the inside bend and using a copper band welded on to change the shape.
After considerable effort my wife states that the pictures to show the results are now attached to this posting. I hope that it works.
Anyway, the results of the modification are satisfactory. The look does not match up to professional musical instrument craft standards. But the comparison test between the necks on a digital tuner shows very little change.
It works, and that is what is important to me. Now I can play the Martin.
Hmmmm sorry click, but it looks awful; just so pleased for you that it works.
I had exactly the same problem & with no experience of bending tubes I used Cerrobend & had a perfect result.
The comparison test between the necks on a digital tuner shows very little change.
If you look carefully you might see that the octave pip key pad falls a millimeter or two closer to the body of the horn than it did.
If there is any overall change in the neck length or volume, the results of the digital tuner suggest that movement of the mpc on the cork is sufficient adjustment.
That looks great. Of course, there is no NEED for a straight any Sax, but we Aussies tend to like the unusual (read: bizarre). Eg. How about a straight Baritone Sax, made that way right here in Australia?:- (it's the Red one at about 2:30)
This is the alteration that I believed you were referring to, but I was not sure.
The photos superimposed are excellent for showing the change.
Thanks for posting them.
I had your change done by a tech, and it did improve the the playing position somewhat, but I still did not like it very much over an extended period.
I wanted a playing position that was similar to a Bb tenor or to the Conn straight neck C mel, while the "tip only" alteration pushed my right hand out away from my body, while still leaving the left hand closer than I wanted.
So now I have 3 necks for my Martin: the original and 2 modified (one with your bend and one with the strange and ugly spun-over patch job that my fabricator came up with).
I cannot recommend my solution to anyone who cares about the appearance of the horn.
The feel, however, is just right and the numbers on the side-by-side digital tuner test are good.
In addition to improving the playing position, your solution has the vast advantage in being within reach of nearly every do-it-yourself person.
I have no doubt that nearly everyone would rather go that way.
Some horns fit me better than others so I'm interested in this - did you try moving the strap ring? Looks like you moved the MP up about 1.5" relative to the tenon and upper stack. Are you pretty tall? And are you a tenor player regularly?
Yes....strap ring modified. I made a trio (knuckleduster) of rings from silver in exactly the style of the original....&, of course, use the lower ring.
Not really tall...about 5 ft 10, & yes, I am a tenor player.
The little Martin Typewriter C now suits me perfectly.
For clarity, this is a photograph of my "knuckleduster" strap rings.
The top ring is the original, & I made the two lower rings to match, & hopefully, blend.
click.
The only aspect of importance here is that your modification is right for you....that's all that matters.....the horn is for playing, not for close aesthetic examination.
Quite right!
The whole point in having custom work done is to get what is right for oneself.
I can hardly expect others to agree, but generally I could not give a nanogram for looks.
My pal wants me to send it off and get chromed to match the horn.
If I were to do that it would be ironical: bent up shape, bent up keywork, gnarly metal band in the middle, but all in matching nickel plate.
HA!
That would be kind of funny ...
It would also probably cost a couple of hundred U.S.
I did something similar with a Buescher C-mel neck. The main difference was that I took my wedge out directly under the octave key post, so it was largely concealed. Unfortunately, this was the neck that had the octave pip too far from the mouthpiece for clean palm notes, so I didn't end up keeping it, but the surgery was successful. I also didn't put a plate over the crack. I just silver soldered it, then soft-soldered the octave key post back on at a lower temperature. There was less than 5 mm of soldered crack visible on either side of the post base, but there were small outward points at each end of the wedge cut that I didn't file down for fear of leaving the metal too thin for good structural integrity.
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