Sax on the Web Forum banner

Spring Replacement

2K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  Gordon (NZ) 
#1 ·
I am starting to get proficient in overhauling clarinets and have done about 7 now, I was wondering whether as part of a standard overhaul if all springs would be removed and replaced with new ones, so far i have only replaced ones that really needed it. your views would be greatly appreciated!
 
#3 ·
I only replace the broken or rusty ones on a full overhaul or service, or the ones I can't remove easily and end up resorting to cutting them short to push them out (I like to remove all needle springs when servicing and overhauling so I can polish the body and pillars easily and without getting stabbed). Otherwise I test them all and only replace the ones that need replacing.

If they're all phosphor bronze springs (eg. fitted to B&H clarinets from the '60s and '70s), then I'll replace them all with blued steel. If they're stainless steel, then I'd replace damaged ones with stainless steel to match the others.

The problem is with older Leblanc clarinets and saxes and Buffet saxes (S1 etc.) that use gold plated steel springs - you can replace them with blued steel springs but they won't match. MusicMedic sells gold plated springs should you need them.
 
#5 ·
Generally I only replace springs if they're rusted, ill fitting, the wrong length or if the wrong type has been fitted - i.e. if a stainless steel spring has been fitted on a horn that has blued steel springs.

I also - like Chris - remove the springs, when servicing and overhauling, to get into all the nooks and crannies without impaling myself when cleaning the instrument.
 
#6 ·
I also - like Chris - remove the springs, when servicing and overhauling, to get into all the nooks and crannies without impaling myself when cleaning the instrument.
I may be mis-reading, are you saying when you "service" an instrument you remove all the springs fitted.
 
#7 ·
When I say overhaul I mean stripping the instrument right down and replacing all pads, key corks/felts and tenon corks, plus oiling the bore, cleaning toneholes, refacing toneholes, swaging key barrels, refitting socket rings, polishing all plated parts, polishing all screws, etc. so in effect stripping the instrument right down and starting again from scratch to rebuild it.

On a service I replace what pads and key corks needs replacing, plus polishing up all silver plated parts, oiling bore, cleaning out toneholes, oiling the keywork, etc. which is routine work done every year to two years (depending on use) to keep an instrument in top form.

But in both cases I like to remove the needle springs to polish up the pillars and on saxes I like to remove the springs so I can wash the body without my hands getting all stabbed and scratched up. I keep the springs in order by sticking them into wine corks in their relative position as they'd be on the instrument, likewise with point screws.
 
#8 ·
Mmm, I personally don't understand the need to remove springs when servicing. Prevention of being pricked when cleaning to me wouldn't justify the work required and possible damage to the instrument, all of course IMO.
 
#9 ·
Some springs definitely have to be removed to check the anchored pillar screws are tight. Also removing the shared pillar for the C#/G# key and LH2 rings on clarinets allows better access when replacing the middle tenon cork or doing any other tenon work. I also like to remove the speaker tube which makes for much easier cleaning of it and also makes oiling the top joint bore much easier.

On oboes that have springs down to around 0.3mm-0.35mm, these are easy to get caught and bent into right angles when polishing up pillars, so best taken out and put aside.

On student instruments with nickel plated pillars, I may leave the springs in place. It all depends how dirty the joints and pillars are.
 
#10 ·
I totally agree with Simso.

I never replace springs unless they are failing to do their job, or I consider that they are likely to will fail soon. That means not very often at all. Mainly if they have rust that is deeper than superficial.
Or if somebody has installed an inappropriate diameter.
Or on some cheap instruments when a spring cannot do its job because it is made from something resembling mild steel, and cannot be sufficiently tensioned.
Or when I have to secure a post on a clarinet.

I would remove them if I was into re-lacquering.
\Never as routine for a mechanical overhaul/repad.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top