Hi
I was wondering if theres any instruction/manual for taking appart saxes.
i have a buescher true tone 1926 and big b.
thanks
Hi
I was wondering if theres any instruction/manual for taking appart saxes.
i have a buescher true tone 1926 and big b.
thanks
SOTW member, Hornfixer, sells great videos that show you exactly how to rebuild many types of saxes. You could PM him.
Here's a link to his profile:
http://forum.saxontheweb.net/member.php?18094-hornfixer
Good Luck,
Enviroguy
_____________________________________________
Buescher 400 Tenor, Pre-War Big-B Aristocrat Tenor, True Tone Alto, Conn New Wonder Bari, Antigua 590 Soprano
As an amateur horn dismantler I found a TT a very good one to start with.
It's worth taking good close up photos as you do it, make a note of which screws go where.
lay a sheet or large cloth out on your table, screws are less likely to roll of onto the floor than they do with a shiny surface.
And I agree, get Stephen's Haynes manual.
Remember - when assembling the Buescher TT, you have to put the high E key on before the whole of the LH main action goes back on!
F*** the notes, go for the tone!
Good Luck,
Enviroguy
_____________________________________________
Buescher 400 Tenor, Pre-War Big-B Aristocrat Tenor, True Tone Alto, Conn New Wonder Bari, Antigua 590 Soprano
Pretty neat LEGO art there! Someone needs to fix the High F palm key though.
Mike S.
SOTW Administrator/Staff
Thatta Bundy, right?
Ben
"I drank what?"
-- Socrates
I want one.
My Website http://bandrepair.net/
My Ebay seller page http://www.ebay.com/sch/hornfixer.ge...p2047675.l2562
Looks better build than some other poly saxophones of late.
Yeah, I said it.
Mike S.
SOTW Administrator/Staff
Red plays better, and besides...we don't even know the serial number of the yellow one.
I would strongly suggest not removing the pivot screws or the springs. Once the key is removed, tighten the screw back into the post. There are two reasons for this. First they can get lost easily, and second on older saxes pivot screws wear differently so it is important they stay with the original key (post).
Rods that are removed can be organized in a rod board as shown below. This keeps them up off the workbench and keeps them somewhat organized. I like to put the three palms together, the two side keys together, and then the front F, the fork F#, the low C/Eb, and the low C# according to length.
I like to disassemble the sax in the reverse order that I reassemble it.
Independent Keys
-palms
-front F
-side keys
-fork f#
-low C/Eb
Bell Keys
-low B, Bb & levers
-low C# and levers
Upper stack
-all keys on upper stack rod
-bis key (if separate)
-G# key and lever
Lower stack
-all keys on the lower stack rod
-Eb trill (if present)
I have a template to drill a rod board in various sizes. If anyone is interested, send me an email.
thanks for all the tips and sugestions
highly appreciated.
Tim
thanks
Buescher TT 212xxx alto - Buescher Aristocrat Big B 325xxx alto
Dukoff D8 metal - Selmer C* S80 - Selmer C* metal jazz
Vandoren JAVA green/red 2, 2/12
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