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I got a Gemeinhardt 2SP flute (serial N°490xx)

10K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  Gordon (NZ) 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I just bought a Gemeinhardt 2SP flute, and in the Ebay guide the one with a 'D' in the serial number appears the most sought after.

Well,

I got one. For 332 USD ( or €250, originally it was 280 but I bid 250 and got it :) )

Serial number D49OXX. I'll post pics soon.
I still have to clean it a bit (it's kinda dusty between the mechanics, anyone have any tips on how to get that clean safely?)
The headjoint seems quite perfect (no major scratches or dents).
The pads look kinda bad I think (kinda dry, but what would you expect from a flute that hasn't been played in at least 8 years), I got a low D out of it so so far it seems ok (I'll let my teacher test it, I bet he'll be surprised).

I can get a sound out of the headjoint (it's LOUD and quite full I think) and also got a couple of tones when it's assembled.

I bought it off some old saxophonist who once started on the flute but then quit.

It's in the original case, but no cleaning rod :(

Anyway I think I'll fall in love with this thing soon enough!

Some beginner questions:
-I accidentally turned the screw on the headjoint, is this bad?

-Has anyone got a clear guide one how to place your hands? Which finger carries the weight of the flute?

-How do I clean the mechanics?

-How much does the average cleaning rod cost?

-Should I oil the joints a little bit?

-can I ask my tech to get rid of all the dust between the keys?

-How much will a full repad cost?

Greets!
 
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#2 ·
Once you get a cleaning rod (costs about 5 USD), you will see a line on it. Stick the rod down the headjoint tube. The line gets centered up in the embouchure hole to be in tune. You can unscrew the cap a little, then push it to get the cork in the correct position. Then you shouldn't mess with it at all. You can cause a leak. But if you're taking it in for an overhaul, your tech will take care of this for you as well as checking the cork for leaks. Finger placement: The Eb key (RH pinky) is pushed down all the time except for fingering D. The B thumb key is the same way, except for the C fingering. Put your right thumb under your index finger. Keep in mind there are folks on this forum far more knowledgeable than me, so I can only answer the most basic of questions. Gordon NZ has a really good post here somewhere just for beginners.
 
#16 ·
#4 ·
I'd love to be able to sell used M2's or 2sp flutes for the amount you paid. Especially if I didn't have to repad them.:D I have two completely repadded right now that I would have sold for much less.

The screw on the head is the head crown and cork assmbly. Turning it won't cause damage, but it will make it go out of tune. It probably needs a new cork judging from what you said about the rest of the flute. There are essentially 3 points of contact that balance the flute when playing. The majority of the support comes from your right thumb. The side of your left hand below your index finger and your lower lip/chin area also balance things out. That's not to say your other fingers don't contribute to the balance.

It sounds to me like it is in need of being repadded. I clean and oil the mechanism and clean the body when I do a repad. Your Tech will likely do this too. Repad prices vary greatly for flute. The going rate in my area for a student flute like yours is in the range of $120.
Matt
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. :)

So eh, is this thing really sought after? Or is it like a Selmer Bundy sax, a real good student instrument.
 
#6 ·
They are a popular student line instrument in my area, but there are better playing student instruments. They are fairly rugged and should last you a long time if repadded correctly. Sorry to say, they are nothing special any more as other makers have upgraded and experimented to create better flutes. I've seen the hype by a few of the e-bay guys to promote their instruments. IMO it is just hype. I will say I just sold a model 33 Gemeinhardt that was quite nice. On par with Yamaha 500-600 series, but that price point is in a different league than the 2sp. FWIW I still have my trusty M3 that I played in high school, but I play other makes on a regular basis.
Matt
 
#8 ·
From the pictures, it looks to be in good overall condition. As far as I know Gemeinhardt doesn't promote or market their split E model in the US. I rarely see split E flutes of any make. That feature probably adds quite a lot to the value. Pads don't look terrible and it isn't as dirty as I was expecting. I see quite a few that look almost black from the tarnish and dirt.

FWIW, the guide you sited has some inflated numbers IMO. I lived in Elkhart in the 80's which was one of the times of higher level production for Gemeinhardt. I actually worked in a repair shop a couple of blocks from the factory. In those days I believe Gemeinhardt was putting out 600-700 flutes a week. I won't dispute that they have been one of the longest produced and probably best selling flutes in the world, but that doesn't mean they are collectable or rare. Henry Ford made model T's for years until the competition hit the market and he was forced to make the model A. That's not to say that you can't get from point A to point B with a model T, but you can get their in more comfort and with more reliability with a newer model car.
Good Luck,
Matt
 
#11 ·
Hey guys another question:

it seems that the foot joint tenon isn't perfectly round, so it kinda wobbles sometimes.
Should I wait with playing until it is fixed?
 
#13 ·
I would'nt pay more than £50.00GBP for one of these. When i started on flute in the late '60's a Gemeinhardt was THE flute in UK. then B&H bought out the "Emporer" and later Yamaha came along and we all turned Japanese!
I have asked myself so many times why established manufacturers --not just musical--became so complacent to the point of arrogance in the '60's/70's. and failed to move with the times and embrace new developments.
BF
 
#14 ·
When I was with Gemeinhardt in the 1970s, it was owned by a private individual who had been with Conn. We really sold a lot of flutes until the sale to CBS in 1977 when money was more important to a large corporation. For sales, they compared TV markets to band markets. I sold a ton of flutes in Mississippi but few in Atlanta. They said if I sold 500 in Jackson MS, I should sell 5,000 in Atlanta. It doesn't work that way and I left. Later it was owned by some company in Sweden and later Bank Boston. That I why I sell DeFords as I know the maker is not controlled by money, only the love of building instruments to the customer's needs.
 
#15 ·
-Has anyone got a clear guide one how to place your hands? Which finger carries the weight of the flute?
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-hold-your-flute-201593/

-How do I clean the mechanics?
It looks pretty clean. Probably best to leave it alone. However for dust, you could stab it away with a paint brush - any size up to a few inches. For any oil you don't like, wipe with a pipe cleaner, being careful not to scratch with the wire inside the pipe cleaner. It may be better to fold the pipe cleaner and use the folded part.

-Should I oil the joints a little bit?
You mean between the three sections of flute? Definitely not. They should be kept really clean and free from tarnish. Gemeinhardts tarnish readily here if you leave them assemble while damp. Oil collects dust which is abrasive. Oil also tends to have a grip-slip quality in these locations which, makes the flute more difficult to assemble.

-can I ask my tech to get rid of all the dust between the keys?
Yes. He'll probably stab it away with a paint brush or equivalent.

-How much will a full repad cost?
It depends a lot on your location, the technician, the competition, the quality of the pads used, how much of the vital other work the technician does, on the quality of the workmanship in the adjustment process, and whether you are being ripped off by a substandard technician. Etc.
 
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