New to flute, which level?

[mostly alto guy]

I'm becoming a doubler/tripler, and as part of this process I want to buy one flute, meaning I don't want to have to upgrade later. A pro-level flute is therefore what I feel would be right for my purposes. Are there some pro flutes that shouldn't be used to start on? Is it not good to start with an open hole flute? The questions could go on, but I suspect I've said enough to garner some opinions.

[ferrari]

mostly alto guy; Check out the archives; this topic has been covered to death. After checking that out, I'm sure you'll have more specific questions. Personally I've been playing flute for 30 some years, and it's always been on a plateau keys (closed hole) and offset G. Last year I bought a pro Yamaha with the same features, and I'm very pleased with it. It's hard enough to learn the flute without adding the additional difficulty that inline G and open holes present.

[SuiZen]

I think any pro flute is okay to start on. There are differences amongst the makes and models, so you need to try some to help decide which one.

If you decide to get an open hole flute, you can get plugs for the holes, and remove them, one at a time, as you develop.

You can go with a C-foot, i.e., you probably won't need a B-foot.

The off-set G will be comfortable, and is okay as long as you don't decide to later go in-line. If you pay a lot for a professional flute with an off-set G, it may be harder to get your investment back. Most pro flutists prefer the in-line G, and open hole.

Bill

[mostly alto guy]

Thanks for your responses. I read the archive, but found almost nothing there about one make that has me intigued--Pearl. Any thoughts on them? I'm thinking 665 Quantz.

[Gordon (NZ)]

The in-line G thing is a local USA fashion, with zero common sense behind it. In line G flutes are almost non-existent in New Zealand, and many other countries.

Likewise, open hole is not synonymous with professional flute. Once again, this is LARGELY 'fashion', or even for many people, a sort of snob effect.

My own Muramatsu flute is as good as they get without going for gold, and has off-set G and closed hole.

Split E is worthwhile, especially to assist a doubler, and mechanically speaking, is close to incompatible with in-line G.

Unlike some top saxes, top flutes are extremely well made. You cannot really go wrong with the makes that have long-term proven, consistent high standards: Muramatsu, Sankyo, Yamaha, Powell, Haynes. There are newer players on the scene, many others that are unreliable from flute to flute, and some less common top makes.

You run a big risk in buying an older flute, say over 20 years. Mechanism may have considerable wear, and the modern heads are certain to be far, far better. People usually part with their once top quality flutes for good reason.

You can pay megabucks for features that are entirely cosmetic, or contibute in only a very minor way to the performance of an instrument. It is VERY likely that even with a 300 series (student with a silver head) Yamaha flute you will be the limiting factor, not the flute. IMO this flute plays better than most top pro flutes of 50 years ago.

Listed specs for flutes are almost meaningless. Any good flute has in-tune placing of tone holes. By far the most important item for how a flute performs, other than this, is the design and manufacture of the head, more particularly the embouchure hole region.

Sir James Galway plays only Muramatsu (by choice) and is very impressed with their current 'basic' model.

Choice of a top flute is a very personal one and can ONLY be made by you when you are a quite accomplished player. So I strongly suggest you save your money until this happens, and buy a good basic flute in the mean time.

Definitely, look at all the info now in the archives.

[singlereed]

The Yamaha YFL 211 is used by many students right up to grade 8. They sound fine, are easy to play all over the range. They also do the same flute with a solid head joint that has a slightly nicer tone. That's really all you need and what a huge number of doublers use, including professional ones. Try musicalinstrumentmegastore.co.uk or starland.co.uk. They are so well-regarded and so reliable that if you ever sell it, you should get most of your money back, especially as the price ion the high street is 30% more.

[Bob G.]

Mostly Alto Guy - I have been shopping for an entry level pro flute also. Play as many flutes as you can find before slapping down the cash. However, finding the flutes you want to try, all in one place, is next to impossible. If you shop online, make sure you buy from a dealer that has a trial period so you can return the flute if you decide against it. Some dealers have a small restocking or cleaning fee and, of course, you pay the shipping both ways. I would rather pay these small fees than be stuck with an expensive flute that I'm not happy with.

I've been playing on a student Yamaha with C foot, closed holes, and offset G and I like it very much. In the course of trying flutes, I found that I actually like the feel of open holes. With open holes my fingers tend to have a "target" and they feel "centered" to me, all of which helps me feel more connected with the flute mentally. Maybe it is just a little more sensory input between the pads of my fingers and my brain??!! It has nothing to do with tone; it's just the feel that I like. I am staying with the offset G since the inline G feels uncomfortable. I am also getting a B foot since I often play my son's sax music on the flute (it really is quite fun) and now I'll be able to hit the low B.

I currently have a Muramatsu EX ll RBE with open holes, offset G, B foot and split E on the way in shipment. I should have it with 2 weeks and I am very excited. This flute is difficult to find in stock. I'll have a seven day trial period. If it is good enough for Sir James, it will probably be good enough for me! :lol:

Thanks to all who gave me so much advice recently, especially Bootman and Gordon. Too bad all those posts got lost in the recent site problems.

[Bootman]

MAG,
Check your email.

[kikkosound]

Mostly Alto Guy

Like always, Try Before You Buy :D
That said, I tried Pearl at NAMM 2001 along with Emerson, Yamaha, Gemienhardt and a few others. I personally liked the Pearl best, but some of the players with me preferred the Yamaha or the Gem. I just bought a Coda from Pearl. :)

Good luck.

[mostly alto guy]

Not long after I started this thread, I bought an early 70s solid silver Muramatsu Basic. Though I can't play it worth a hoot yet, the real flute players with whom I've discussed starting lessons have all raved about it.

I have no doubt I made a good decision.

Thanks again, Bootman.

[Gordon (NZ)]

Every time I service a Muramatsu GX I am very impressed with the way it plays. It reckon it would be difficult to go wrong with one of these, bought unseen. But for a cheap, excellent flute, Yamaha.

[mike]

While it might save you some money in the long run, I would recommend getting a student or conservatory level flute to start with, spend some time getting up some flute chops and then consider trying some of the low-end (and not so low end) flutes from the big boys.

I think flutes like the Miramatsu EX or the Powell Sonata or similar flutes (plated body with professional quality headjoint) will cost $2000-$2500. If you go for a silver tube, you're looking at $4000-$4500.

That's a big cash outlay to discover down the road that, for whatever reasons, it seems about 50 times harder to get the sound you want on the Powell than on a friends Miramatusu. (And you will find they DO play differently.)