replacing removed snaps/receivers, ideas anyone?

[jotteff]

Hi all,

I recently acquired a 272k Aristocrat alto which had the snaps removed by the previous owner. Not only are the snaps missing, the receivers' "nipples" in the key cups have also been ground off, only their bases are remaining.

I'm quite determined, though, to repad with metal-backed snap-in pads (already got them from MusicMedic, actually).

I'm not too concerned about "historical correctness", but I want to get a good functional equivalent to the Buescher snap-ins.

From the discussions on this forum I gather that the extra weight of the snap-ins is an important factor.

From Gus Buescher's patent application, I gather that the slight concavity which the pads assume when snapped down is important as well (comments, anyone?).

What I'm thinking of at the moment is to hard-solder threaded or tapped brass studs into the key cups and use a matching counterpart to fix the pads and properly sized resos in the cup. I have a small lathe, so fabricating parts is not a problem.

But, there must be someone out there who has done this before... Could you give me any advice?

Also, there may be stuff available which only needs to be slightly modified to be used this way. What would you think of taking Resotechs and hard-solder the retaining screws into the key cups? J.L.Smith has Selmer-style nylon resos that come with a brass snap. Maybe these snaps could be hard-soldered into the key cups?

Btw: Anyone have a list of the original snap-in sizes for an alto?

Thanks, Johannes

[MusicMedic]

Hello Johannes,

There are a few ways that you can go about this.

1. Get (or make) the spuds and SOFT solder them in place. Then find replacement snaps and snap the pads in place. This is a big job and will not be fun. I doubt the gains will be worth your effort. The only really feasible way of doing this would be to abuse some poor True Tone and take it's snaps.

2. Using the Rivet method. Put some Domed Resos on the pads before you install them. The pull that the resonators have on the pad (which is increased by the firm metal back) will give you sufficient pull on the leather pads. This would make our friend Mr. Buescher happy for sure. To do this, you will need to put some thin washers on the back of the pads and use the Rivet that is soldered into a seamless domed Reso already.

3. Return those pads (which I will gladly accept) and get some "regular" cardboard backed pads with the correct sized domes.


I have helped people with this repair several times and done it my self many more, if you need any help locating the proper sized domes or installing the resos, drop me a line at Curt@MusicMedic.com

BTW, of these, I think #2 is your best option. The resulting look and feel will fool even someone with a discerning touch. Also, no matter what you choose to do, hard soldering will not be necessary. Just soft solder if you must solder at all.

Good Luck with your Buescher!

Curt Altarac

[Dave Dolson]

Johannes: I know you may have already decided that you MUST have the Buescher (or reasonably facsimiles) pads, but I have a few TTs (sops, alto, C-mel), some with snap-ins and some without. My favorite straight soprano (a late '20's silver straight TT) had the snap-in studs removed years ago and it was re-padded with what looks like Selmer-style resos.

The horn is terrific - as good as any soprano I've ever played, and better than another TT sop I have with snap-ins. My alto, without snap-ins and with smallish metal resos, is also a wonderful horn - the best of any alto I've played.

It isn't the end of the world to have a TT without snap-ins or facsimiles. DAVE

[jotteff]

Hi Curt and Dave,

thanks for your valuable comments.

Dave, you're absolutely right, it's not the end of the world to have a Buescher without the snaps. Its only that I'm a tinkerer by nature and, looking at the key cups with their ground-down snap receivers and at Curt's fine metal-backed pads, I think it shouldn't be too difficult to fabricate some kind of functional replacement for the snaps. That doesn't necessarily mean "facsimiles", the first thing I thought of was some kind of screw-in system. I'm a bit spoiled by my environment, working at a company that once used to make sextants still builds gyrocompasses (we don't have an own fine-mechanical workshop any more, though).

Curt, don't worry, I'm very happy to have your snap-in pads. They're fine pads indeed. Your option #2 (using the rivet method) is what I thought of doing if it turns out too difficult to fabricate a replacement for the snaps. In your option #1 you assume, as Dave did, that I want to get "the real thing", more or less. I'm not prepared, though, to hunt (and pay) for genuine Buescher parts. As I wrote above, my first idea was to employ some kind of screw-in system, but maybe I might come up with a better idea still. There's always option #2...
I'd be very grateful if you could tell me what sizes the Buescher snaps had and what resonator sizes you'd recommend to install, based on your profound experience with the Buescher horns. I'll drop you a mail.

Thanks again, Johannes

[Bootman]

Johannes,
Drop me a line as I have some of these spuds and snaps here. A 272K horn is an amazing instrument and without the snap in pads, the feel and response of the horn is affected adversely.

bootman at bootmanmusic.com

[Kosma]

I have a 288K alto that I bought from another forum member. The snaps are long gone and it has small metal resos on most of the pads. It's a relaq with evidence of several repairs. That said, this horn is an absolute killer. It plays better than the 329K closet alto that I had.
When I first got the 288K it had some loose rods and a stripped D palm key screw, all of which were causing major leaks. I thought it was a piece of junk at first, until I got those things fixed. Now it's downright amazing!