View Full Version : True Tone altos with a plugged tone hole?
CosmicGrooves
03-19-2009, 02:49 AM
It looks like in both of these pictures, of different horns, a tone hole is plugged up. What is the point in that?
Grumps
03-19-2009, 03:02 AM
It's the fork/alternate Eb tone hole; played by fingering a D and lifting the right middle finger. Used to be fairly standard on the early horns. It's reverse sprung on my TT alto, but functional on my soprano. Lots of folks disable it or plug it up as they either have no need for the alternate fingering, feel it may be prone to leaks or just don't like the feel of it.
bruce bailey
03-19-2009, 06:24 AM
I usually plug it except on some sopranos. On smaller horns if it is plugged, the F tends to be flat but it varies with different models. I have it open on my King, Chu and Holton sopranos but closed on a Conn curvie as the way the keywork is set up, it tends to get out of adjustment. I have a rare Mark VI that has it and has been plugged for 40 years. On that TT, it looks ugly with the cork. The best way is to take the key off and file a small mark on the opposite side of the spring hook and reverse the spring tension. At the same time, contact cement the felt on the underside of the E pearl to the E cup so there is not any rattle.
milandro
03-19-2009, 07:53 AM
the worst I've seen was a Conn Conqueror tenor with the mechanism REMOVED and the key soldered shut- I have several Old horns with that mechanism and I, in general, grew fond of the alternative keys and trills on these old ladies (or gentlemen).
ranran4
03-19-2009, 12:14 PM
I have been pondering this one on my horn because (at least to me) if feels like it is making notes below C1 harder to play and "gurgly."
Is this my imagination, or is that one of the things it affects as well?
Fungus Mungus
03-19-2009, 04:56 PM
It does have that effect if it's leaking...a very common occurrence.
If it's working, I usually leave it alone, but if it's giving me trouble, I reverse the spring shut. Usually on Bueschers, it can be done easily as there is a hook on both sides of the spring. Conns are harder as they can only be hooked one way, but as another poster suggested, a small file mark will allow the spring to catch on the opposite side.
One of the problems with the forked Eb key, unless the spring is adjusted just so, is that it adds extra resistance to the low E key.
I've gotten horns where someone had removed the key and plugged it with a dime. :/
fm
ranran4
03-19-2009, 05:07 PM
Thanks, I just had it overhauled and was getting frustrated. I will try reverse springing it this evening and see if that helps.
NissanVintageSax
03-19-2009, 05:26 PM
I have that same key on my King Bari, but it's much larger, and actually quite useful (and nearly in tune too!). Also have it on my Tru Tone stencil c-melody. I haven't felt the need to plug either one. I'm keeping the one open on my Conn stencil curved Soprano as well.
hgrail
03-19-2009, 07:37 PM
I really enjoy having the alt Eb - and with all my horns (and all horns) had it.
I've found on some horns it plays as well as the normal fingering - and on some horns it sounds a little stuffy. If the linkage is out of adjustment it will cause air leaks - but this is usually easily fixed by someone who knows what they are doing. In the meantime it is easy to cork it shut until you get it to a tech.
On my True Tone altos and my older Martins these always worked very well. On my Buescher bass it is a bit stuffy for some reason - but still nice to have handy.
saintsday
03-19-2009, 07:47 PM
I have been pondering this one on my horn because (at least to me) if feels like it is making notes below C1 harder to play and "gurgly."
Is this my imagination, or is that one of the things it affects as well?
Take it to a tech who knows these horns. There is no reason to plug it. When properly adjusted it is no problem.
Mark Fleming
03-19-2009, 08:18 PM
I've got it on my TT tenor and CMel. I haven't found the seating and adjustment any more complex or frustrating than any other pad on the horn. It certainly is nicer looking than some of the work arounds.
I learned to do repads on these horns so I didn't understand that they had odd pad arrangements and fingerings (because I'd never played a saxophone). Thanks to the TT, I now put a Eb/D trill riff in everything I play. I've also never played anything that required a front high F#, so the TT is perfect.
Mark the Eb/D triller (also G#/G)
ranran4
03-20-2009, 06:15 PM
I have been pondering this one on my horn because (at least to me) if feels like it is making notes below C1 harder to play and "gurgly."
Is this my imagination, or is that one of the things it affects as well?
Take it to a tech who knows these horns. There is no reason to plug it. When properly adjusted it is no problem.
It has just been onverhauled (<3 weeks) so I figured that they did adjust it. I guess I should have asked. :?
The reverse springing does help but I think I need a stronger spring there IF I am going that direction with it. Oh well, I have the weekend to fiddle with it and decide one way or the other.
bruce bailey
03-20-2009, 06:36 PM
For now, just wedge a cork between the cup and cage.
cmelodysax
03-20-2009, 07:28 PM
For now, just wedge a cork between the cup and cage.
Yes, doesn't have to be subtle - slice a piece off a wine cork. Good excuse to go out and buy a decent bottle of wine :)
ranran4
03-22-2009, 07:18 PM
Is THAT why I have been keeping all those sweet mountain laurel corks???
saintsday
03-22-2009, 10:34 PM
You'll get a richer and more vibrant tone from Iberian Quercus suber harvested when the tree is about 100 years old. Of course if you play a lot of bebop you'll want Tunisian cork.
ranran4
04-01-2009, 12:24 PM
You'll get a richer and more vibrant tone from Iberian Quercus suber harvested when the tree is about 100 years old. Of course if you play a lot of bebop you'll want Tunisian cork.
I like the way you think...
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